an Essay by Ciukaq Cadence Cedars
As I awaken from a night of camping in the Yukon wilderness, a chill in the air prompts me to burrow deeper into my cozy sleeping bag. Relishing the warmth for just a few more moments, I listen to the soft rustling of the trees and the gentle caress of the wind against the fabric of the tent.
With a reluctant sigh, I reach for my watch, its dim light illuminating the early hour: 05:51 AM. Glancing over at Alisson, still deep in slumber, I gather the resolve to leave the comfort of my warm cocoon. Slowly, I unzip the sleeping bag and slip out, greeted by crisp morning air that nips at my cheeks. Peeking my head outside, I am met with a playful breeze that tousles the front strands of my hair. Stepping into my boots, I embark on a quiet journey towards the nearby riverbank.
The sun, barely risen, casts long shadows across the rugged Yukon landscape, painting the terrain in hues of amber and gold. As I approach the water’s edge, the tranquility of the scene envelops me. Across the river, trees sway in unison, their dance synchronized with the rhythm of passing clouds. Mesmerized by the beauty of nature’s symphony, I lower my gaze and notice a glimmer amidst the rocky ground. A piece of quartz, catching the early morning light, beckons me closer, reminding me of the hidden treasures scattered throughout this vast wilderness. The plan for today is to hike Biederman Bluff, a monumental feat in the heart of Alaska’s rugged Terrain.
Sitting down to savor my breakfast of instant oatmeal, accompanied by the refreshing taste of water from a canteen, or perhaps the lingering sweetness of cinnamon, memories flood my mind of the bluffs back home on the Kuskokwim River. Comparatively diminutive in size, they pale in comparison to the majestic grandeur of the Yukon Bluffs that loom before me.
These colossal formations stand as silent sentinels, adorned with spruce trees clinging to their vast stature, a testament to the untamed wilderness of this land. With our gear packed, we embark on our journey, launching our rafts onto the river’s gentle current.
Anticipation crackles in the crisp Alaskan air as we paddle downstream, the scent of pine mingling with the distant rush of the river, painting a picture of adventure waiting just beyond the horizon. Each stroke of the paddle propels us deeper into the heart of Alaska’s wilderness, where every bend of the river holds the promise of discovery and wonder. As we draw closer to our destination, the remnants of a past wildfire come into view, casting a solemn reminder of the untamed forces that shape this land. Undeterred by the charred landscape, we prepare to disembark and begin our ascent of Biederman Bluff.
Traversing the trail up Biederman Bluff, the landscape unfolds in layers of natural beauty. The warmth of the air envelops me, accompanied by the persistent hum of insects flitting about, coming to check us out, new flesh. Each step forward brings me deeper. The path meanders through thickets of bushes and shrubs, their branches reaching out to greet me with an occasional slap to the face. Yet, despite the obstacles, there is a sense of serenity in the surroundings.
Sunlight filters through the spruce above, casting intricate patterns on the taiga floor, where the vibrant hues of autumn leaves mingle with the evergreen foliage of the taiga.
Ascending higher, the air grows cooler, tinged with the invigorating scent of mossy air. The trail becomes steeper, demanding more from me. I find myself relying on my hands as much as my feet, using gloves to grip onto the rough terrain and steady myself against the ascent. Each grasp brings with it a tactile connection to the earth, as thorns and twigs snag at my gloves. Yet, despite the challenges, there is a sense of exhilaration in the climb, a feeling of being truly alive amidst the raw beauty of nature. With each pull upwards, I am drawn further into the embrace of the wilderness, my senses alive to every sight, sound, and scent that surrounds me.
Emotions surge like the wind gusting against the cliff face as I ascend higher. Memories of past hikes intertwine with the present, each step a testament to the journey I have undertaken. The surrounding scenery, a symphony of nature’s grandeur, captivates my senses. Towering pines stand sentinel amidst a carpet of sage that blankets the taiga floor, painting a picture of serene wilderness. The crackling of twigs underfoot, the earthy scent of sage hanging in the air—it is as if the world itself is whispering secrets to me, inviting me to become one with its rhythms and cycles.
Covered in a tapestry of twigs, needles, and leaves, I feel not just like an observer of nature but a part of it, woven into the very fabric of existence. With each step, the bluff narrows, leading me closer to the edge where the world unfolds in a breathtaking panorama. To one side, a river snakes its way through the landscape, while on the other, mountains rise in silent reverence.
The juxtaposition of elements, the fluidity of water against the permanence of rock, evokes a sense of awe that stirs something deep within. A creek cuts through the bluff, its gentle waters carving a path towards the river below.
The sun beats down relentlessly, its warmth tempered by the cool breeze that sweeps in from the cliff’s edge. Yet, amidst this natural splendor, I find myself disrupted by a persistent nuisance. Flies, drawn by the scent of charred trees, swarm around me, their incessant buzzing disrupting the tranquility of the moment. Despite my attempts to swat them away, they persist. Standing there, high above the ground, I cannot help but entertain a fleeting thought – what if these flies were to distract me to the point of misstep?
The image of tumbling over the cliff edge flashes in my mind, the rush of wind, and the sound of crashing waves hauntingly vivid. It is a sobering reminder of the thin line between serenity and danger, between the sublime beauty of nature and its unforgiving harshness. Before me, a vast expanse of nature unfolds, a masterpiece painted in hues of green and gold. Even amidst the captivating scenery of Alaska’s wilderness, scars etched into the land serve as haunting reminders of its raw power and unforgiving nature.
The remnants of last year’s wildfires cling to the landscape like solemn specters, leaving behind a somber tableau of blackened trees and scorched earth. Their presence serves as a poignant reminder of the fragility of life in this rugged terrain, where every breath is a testament to resilience.
In the midst of such untamed beauty, surrounded by towering peaks and crystalline lakes, I feel a profound sense of connection to the natural world—a connection that transcends words and defies explanation.
It is a humbling experience, to be so small amidst such grandeur, yet it is also incredibly empowering, a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit in the face of adversity. In that fleeting moment, as the wind whispers through the trees and the distant cry of a lone eagle echoes across the valley, I know that this journey will be etched in my memory forever.
Descending from the bluff is tough, with each step a careful negotiation with the rugged terrain. The once thrilling climb now seemed like child’s play compared to the challenge of making my way down. Every move felt precarious, the threat of losing my footing and tumbling down the steep incline looming over me.
The air was heavy with the scent of pine and earth, the aroma of the taiga floor mingling with the sharp, invigorating fragrance of the spruce trees that surrounded us. With each breath, I could feel the cool, crisp air filling my lungs, rejuvenating me even as the challenge of the descent wore on.
Grasping onto anything I could find for support—a sturdy tree branch here, a shrub there—I slowly descended. Relief flooded over me as I shortened the distance to the bottom, my muscles, and ankles tense from the strain of the descent.
I caught up with Alisson; we shared a laugh over our humbling misadventures on the way down. Her back is smudged with dirt, twigs tangled in her hair—clearly, she has gone through more of a challenge than I. As we continued, the terrain remained unforgiving, with uneven ground threatening to twist my ankles at every turn. The warmth of the sun on my skin was a welcome change from the cool shade from the spruce; I shed my jacket, tying it around my waist as I embraced the comfort of the sun’s rays.
Emerging from the trees, I found myself by a serene creek, its gentle flow a soothing backdrop to the sounds of nature. Taking a moment to rest, I closed my eyes and listened to the birds chirping overhead, the creek meeting the river beside me. Feeling a gentle tickle on my arm, I opened my eyes to find a ladybug crawling across my skin. The vibrant red of its shell, the delicate patterning of its wings, the minuscule legs carrying it on its journey. Watching it for a
moment, I could not help but smile and let it be.
Laying back in the sun-dappled clearing, I closed my eyes once more, letting the warmth of the sun and the gentle embrace of nature envelop me as I savored the tranquility of the Yukon.
As I reflect on this intense experience, I find myself overwhelmed with gratitude and appreciation for the profound connection I forged with nature. Every step of the journey, from the tranquil morning by the riverbank to the challenging ascent of Biederman Bluff and the humbling descent back to solid ground, has left an indelible mark on my soul. This experience has been most transformative, and I am filled with a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to immerse myself in the natural world.
I am still catching my breath.
Cadence Ciukaq Cedars is a resident of Bethel, Alaska.
