by Bethel Search and Rescue
11.18.24 BSAR Kuskokwim River Aerial Survey—Report 2024-25 – 01**
Summary:
For the past several years BSAR has been scheduling our first aerial freeze up survey of the Kuskokwim River on November 18th. Flying the same day each year allows us to look back at previous years for comparison.
The route flown on this first flight of the season covered the area west of Bethel to the Tundra Villages, the Johnson River to the Kuskokwim, the Kuskokwim as far down as the Fowler Island then upstream to Aniak.
THERE IS CURRENTLY TOO MUCH OPEN WATER & THIN ICE ON THE KUSKOKWIM RIVER FOR SAFE TRAVEL. NO MAIN RIVER TRAVEL RECOMMENDED AT THIS TIME.
Highlights of the 11.18.24 BSAR Aerial Survey include:
• As of the day of our flight there has been traffic on the trail west of Bethel to the Atmautluak but travel from Nunapitchuk and Kasigluk to Atmautluak has been very minimal
• There are still many open areas above and below Nunapitchuk
• The lower edge of the Kuskokwim River ice is between Fowler Island and the mouth of the Johnson River
• The main channel of the Kuskokwim below this area is still open with a lot of flowing ice
• The main channel of the Kuskokwim from the Johnson River to Napakiak still has large open and thin ice areas
• There is large area of thin ice between Oscarville and Napaskiak
• There is open water and thin ice at the upper end of Nick O. Nick’s Island
• There is a long DEADLY area all through Straight Slough, past the Old Airport, across the main channel to the east side of the Bethel Island
• There is a large area of open water and thin ice at the upper end of Schwalbe Island
• From Schwalbe Island upstream to the ‘Y’ no open water was observed
• Kwethluk has three open water and thin ice areas in front of the village
• The entire length of Kuskokuak Slough is not safe for travel – many open holes and thin ice areas
• The Upper End of Kuskokuak Slough and the main channel toward both Akiak and Akiachak is a major DANGER ZONE
• There is a HUGE open hole in front of Akiak
• Long stretch of open water below Joe Boy’s old fish camp stretches from east bank across to west bank
• Open water in the mouth of Tuluksak River
• Long open hole where the back trail to Akiachak goes up the bank below Tuluksak
Further Up:
Freeze up conditions above Tuluksak all the way to Aniak are much better this year. There is still a lot of open water scattered throughout this section of River but much fewer large open areas. Most of the River is packed in tight with rough ice. Even the traditional areas of concern like Edward Wise’s, Coffee’s, and Birch Tree
Crossing have less open water than last year. We will describe this section in more detail in a later report but here is an example:
2023 – Butt Hill above Kalskag – 4 miles of open water/2024 – packed in & frozen.
Closing:
Freeze up has come to the Kuskokwim River. We are behind this year but a little cold weather can catch us up quickly. It’s a quiet time where people stay close to home doing little chores to get ready for winter. Many make daily trips down to the River to observe the ever changing conditions. Everyone waits patiently for the ice to thicken up so that safe travel in our region can begin again. We have to be patient.
Knowledgeable people sharpen their ice picks and begin testing the ice near their communities. The first ones out on the new ice are the fishers – those that want to manaq or set nets. Blackfish hunters venture out on the back trails around or behind their villages to set their taluyaqs (traps) in the countless little creeks between the tundra lakes.
It’s through these late fall/early winter subsistence activities that People observe the thickening of the ice and determine when it is safe to travel further.
Little by little trails from each community will begin branching out further and further until eventually one community’s trails meet up with another’s and we all become connected again.
Once safe trails are established, local search and rescue groups will head out to make sure that all remaining open water is marked in the traditional way: with rows of willows planted in the ice and BLUE reflectors.
Hopefully this all comes together and safe travel is established on our River before start of the busy holiday season.
We have pictures of every part of the River from this first aerial survey. If you want to see other parts of the River let us know.
Thank you to Fox Air and pilot Justin Vonehr for the good flight.
Happy Holidays and safe travels from Bethel Search Rescue!
*Please Note this report is for informational purposes only. It is not an advisory that it is safe to travel.
**This flight supported by the NVN Kuskokwim Ice Road Crew with funding from the Alaska State Legislature provided through the State of Alaska Department of Commerce, Community and Economic Development.